The history of the Cowboy Hat
As originated by John B. Stetson
John B. Stetson was the son of a Philadelphia master hatter and left Philadelphia in the early 1860's to go west with friends to find a drier climate for their health. During a hunting trip Stetson demonstrated to his friends his well know art of felting fur into a cloth material without weaving. He kneaded the fur repeatedly; using hot water and wringing it dry between soakings as he spread it our flat until he created a smooth, soft piece of fur felt. The felting process, using the hair (fur) of certain mammals with beaver being especially good, is dependent upon the inherent hooks and prongs of the fur that allow the shrinking and kneading of the fur to mat the fur into a very tight, strong fabric totally independent of glues or adhesives.
After making his fur hat body, Stetson fashioned a very large brim hat that provided protection from the sun, rain, snow or wind. Stetson wore the hat throughout the west and found very favorable reaction from the rugged horsemen that he met as he traveled. He eventually sold his hat for $5 before returning to Philadelphia. In 1865 the cattle business began to boom and Stetson decided that making his special big style hat for the cattlemen could be a good business. He borrowed $100 and then rented a small room, bought tools and $10 worth of fur and started making his now famous "Boss of the Plains" hat.
The Stetson cowboy hat became the standard head protection apparel for the growing population of western cowmen, both cowboys and ranchers and anyone wanting to associate with the Wild West lifestyle. It was both practical and good-looking. It could be used as intended for head protection from the elements or fan a fire, whip a horse, wave to distant friends and also provide prestige and elegance to the man beneath its brim. Additionally, the high crown hat provided a preferred hiding place for money and other valuables that might be unprotected elsewhere. The cowboy puts on his hat first thing in the morning and only takes it off as the last thing in the night so it was a natural place to keep his valuables and created the phrase "keeping something under your hat".
It is said that when viewing Charles Russell's western art, you can identify the ranch of the cowboy by just looking at the hat crease and horse rigging as quickly as seeing the brand on the steer. Each outfit generally used a unique hat crease for brims and crowns that essentially became their personal brand. Larry Bute, a western illustrator, has created a pictorial interpretation of dozen's of crown and brim creases that can tell a student of hats where the wearer is from and his station in life.
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